Dishes are limited, change daily and run out early. A constant is jerk chicken ($10), the skin blackened and shining. First there is the coy sweetness, half disappearing into smoke, then twiggy thyme and allspice berries, that jack-of-all-spices, summoning a Christmassy trinity of cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves. Where is the heat, you wonder, and then your tongue lights up. This is how Scotch bonnet peppers attack: one detonation after another, like a string of firecrackers.
The same seasonings in jerk resurface in other dishes, recalibrated so they echo but do not imitate one another. Brown stewed chicken ($10), cooked down with tomatoes, onions, carrots and a touch of soy, is jerk chicken’s less showy but more worldly cousin. Oxtail with lima beans ($14) pushes the soy notes further, into a sticky sweetness.
Read the full article
here
